Sunday, September 26, 2010

Strikes

The RATP is the main transit authority in Paris.  Please, say the letters, as the name is not supposed to tell you how the metro smells.


Paris has an awesome public transportation system.  The trains are frequent and stops are close.  The interconnected trains are reasonably fast for how often they run.


When they are running normally.


Every now and then, though, the RATP likes to make you late for things. Also known as going on strike.


Over the last year, it seems there is little reason to strike.  There is no direct correlation between action and cause.  Employment grievance?  Unsafe working conditions?  Thankfully, though numerous, the strikes were “mini” in nature.  Not complete shut downs, just minor inconveniences.  Less trains, more crowding, but otherwise not increasing travel time by too much.


But still, very often, the strike seemed for the sake of having a strike – until the most recent set of grievances.


France has a guaranteed retirement age.  This age for RATP workers is currently 60.  The government of France has noticed, however, that like the rest of the world, people in France are living longer.  This is in spite of its inhabitants continued love of cigarettes.


So the government is pushing to save some money by pushing the retirement age past 60.  And by save money, it means not go bankrupt.


One may need a vivid imagination, but can you imagine working past 60?


Horrible.


So the RATP strikes, angering commuters and tourists alike.  Somehow this does not seem to be making France any more able to afford people living well past 80.


So unless a new source of revenue is discovered, or the government reverses all anti-smoking measures, they might have to accept the retirement age of 62.


Until that happens, the rest of us might have to accept alternate routes.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Top of the Galeries Lafayette

A quest to eat well requires one of two things.  Knowledge about food, or finding someone who knows about food.  Or more importantly, where to find food.


This takes research.  Good food does not always advertise.  Sometimes like a Marvel vigilante, it hides aloof on the rooftops gazing at the city.


And as luck has its whims, not only was it a great view, but also some great food.


Each summer, the Galleries Lafayette opens a restaurant on its roof.  Since it is taller than most of its surroundings, the view is spectacular.  You get a clear view of the skyline as well as a rare view of the Opera – a building decadent even from behind.




To compliment, the food was great.  At standard Paris pricing, the Japanese/French fusion was interesting while still appetizing.  The weather was cooperative as well, making for a great afternoon meal.


If you ever get a chance, the top of this world famous mall is well worth the ascent.





Friday, August 20, 2010

Pastry Tour


In a recent attempt to fatten for the winter, much good food has been had.  Part of this was a pastry tour organized by Le Petit Vache.

First order of business, if you have a friend organizing special tours of Paris, thank them.  The amount of time and research spent as well as the window to someone’s passion beholds a spectacle.  You see parts of the city you do not know exist, you do things out of your routine, and most importantly, learn.  Simply, something special.

So thank you, LPV.

We start our tour with about eight places in mind.  This number was not an attempt to increase the value of Norvo stock, but good planning.  It is near August, and places are closing for the holiday season.  Moreover, most Parisian places do not like posting hours and forbid any useful information on their websites.  An unlocked door represents open for business.

Pierre Herme is not open for business, so we go to the next stop, Sadaharu Aoki, a Japanese fusion pastry shop.  Macaroon’s are tasted in a variety of flavors.


Next place is close, but we end up walking by Polaine famous for its bread and apple tarts.  To say apple tart is to say something akin to a croissant filled with apples.  Yes, it was that good.

Next place is Hugo & Victor.  The décor exudes posh and luxury.  There are themes to the desserts.  Try strawberry.

We walk around more, run into Dorie Greenspan.  This is my first encounter, but since the party includes not only the organizer but a pasty chef, they know very well.  Dorie is famous for cooking, and should be equally famous for being a nice person.  Mustering some courage, we catch her writing her new book and extremely gracious to talk to friends.

Final stop is La patisserie des Reves.  Fruit tart.  Good end to a delicious day.

Time to resume running.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

24 Hour Service

It was inventible.  Not inevitable like the sun rising or taxation, inevitable in only that way a certain address in Paris seems to attract the absurd.

“Power is out.”

This day was unavoidable.

It is time to confess.  But to make this acknowledgment, you must be transported to two months after May 2nd, 2009.

It is common to use a broker when getting an apartment in Paris, especially when moving for work.  Some people have had amazing success with these representatives, but this achievement is the exception.  Most brokers make pirating seem like an honest day’s work.

So if a broker promises to handle your electricity bill, should you be surprised it does not happen?

A note appears under the door one morning, “this is EDF, the power company, and we will shut off your power if you do not choose and electricity provider.  Immediately.”

Unlike the US, you can choose your provider of electricity.  There is the main company, EDF, the former state run entity (or still state run, or half state run…) and then several others.  I choose a company that seems like everything can be done on the Internet.  Probably not the wisest decision made in Paris, but no worse than ordering something random from a Brasserie.  The food may taste awful and cost you a days wage, but at least you did not go hungry.

Of course, it is not enough to do everything online.  This is not clear at first glance.  You provide your complete dossier including a bank account number, permission slip from your parents, and an x-ray of your skull.  Ah, but we need your signature in pen.

One month passes.

Another mail asking for a signature.

Seems odd, since the first one was sent, so I call them.  Having poorer French language skills at the time and since the call center sounded like the middle of Gare de Lyon, the conversation goes marginally better than an awkward prom date without booze.  I get something that sounds like “send us your signature.”

I do this for the third time.

One month passes.

No bill.

Usually companies want you to pay them.  The power provider is called again.  Somehow a very nice woman with impeccable English and vast quantities of patience answers.  I pinch my left arm.  She is still on the line.  Things are sounding good.  Everything is apparently set.

Two months go by.  No bill.  At which point, my time in France has taught me to let it go.  If the power provider does not want to bill me, why should I bother to tell them?  Thrice attempting is just turning their lack of response into a habit.

Over a year goes by without a power bill.

“Power is out.”

(Inevitably.)

Now if you are American, you are thinking something to the order of, “of course, jack-ass, what do you expect?”

And normally, if you are in America, then you would be right.  My French friends and colleagues question as if the predicament is manufactured from imagination.

“They never cut power here.  It would be easier to enact the fifth republic.”

Suspicion arises.  I had to wait a day because the first night I arrived too late to do anything.  The next day, the self-sufficiency gene governs.

Circuit breakers.  Check.  Cutoff in the basement?  No, but one could film horror there.


 What else could cause the issue?  How about the box between the main line and the apartment.

The box should be locked, as my neighbors boxes are locked.  Locking means a weak plastic tag that makes a cable tie seem insurmountable.  Inside the box contains fuses for the main, or it should.

Someone stole my fuses.

What seems to be sensible at this point is to go to the store and buy some new fuses.  Since this is sensible, you will find out that no store carries them.  It is late, so Monoprix is the first attempt.

The next day a cold shower.

A trek to a home store.  No luck, try another one.  No luck.  Industrial supplier, no luck.  Another home store.

“You must have a license to purchase those.”

What!?  A license to buy fuses!?  Granted the French power grid thinks that someday we may need 440 in our houses, just in case we want to manufacture Eiffel Tower keepsake’s or something, but still.  It’s a fuse.  You pop it in.  No training required.

No dice.  The only option is to call EDF.

Apparently other companies can provide power, but only EDF can service the equipment.  It is quite unclear how this is supposed to work, but that is unimportant.  Warm showers are important.

So first call is to the first energy supplier.  Apparently, the bill is “in process.”  For a year. 

In process for a year.

Maybe it’s a trial period?

Clearly, that was not the right path, so EDF is called.  For them to provide service, you need a contract.  Maybe it is time to pay a bill to someone?  My roommate sets this part up as he has nice coworkers to help with the French.  After the billing is set up, something has to be done at the house.  For some unknown reason, you must call from your home to set up an appointment.

Good thing for cell phones.

First call (I call because my French is better).  Prompts, which lead to a person after about five minutes.  We discuss the merits of me not having power and I argue this is a bad thing.  Yes, I have a contract.  No, I am not my roommate.  You will call back, great.

No call.  The number to call back closes at 9PM.  It’s 9:05PM.

Cold shower.

Second call, different person.  This works much better.  Almost to the point where someone comes out. 

“Yes, my fuses were stolen. Oh, this happens all the time.  No, I am not my roommate.  You need him to call, he doesn’t speak French well.  Your English helpline has five minutes of prompts in French.  Ok, I’ll call with him.”

Third call.

“Yes, I am the person on the bill.  My fuses were stolen.  Please change them.  You’ll call me back?  Fantastic…”

They do call back and direct me to another number. 

“Yes I tried the circuit breakers.  You see, the issue is that where I should have fuses outside of my house, I don’t.  Yes, I have a main circuit breaker, but really, what I don’t have is fuses.  Ok, you’ll send someone tonight.”

Tonight?

Although not the most comfortable introduction to 24 hour service in France, 12:15AM that evening I have power.  The next morning came happily provided by a hot shower.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

French Countryside


Auvergne is in central France.  This is, according to some sources, the official country.

“In France, people live on the coast, but not many in the center.”

When you live in a city, you forget how to relax.  The countryside offers a much slower pace, fresh air, and friendlier people with French you can actually understand.


Thus, the travel to it is well worth the reward.  You get time away from the city of lights.  You have much less noise, many more stars, and in an ultimate dosage of irony, much better smells.

One of my friends was kind enough to let too many Americans et al invade her home.  The respite was much needed.  Even though this was May, the weather was till cool and crisp there was still plenty of non-city entertainment: Badminton, longs hikes, old churches, good food, and maybe some wine.

In short a great time.

So a thank you (belated) to a good friend for hosting and showing us such a wonderful time.


Thursday, July 15, 2010

Monday, July 12, 2010

Renovation

When too much sleep has been had on the weekends, it is hard to justify more during the week.  Thus, squeaking in the wee hours at night, a new project is born.

Pictures.

Some other renovations may be planned, mostly minor.  By request, the font size will increase from small to normal.  Any post edited for pictures or whim will have this new feature.

Someday, someone may be coerced into redesigning the site if the appropriate funds appear to match the inevitably outrageous contract terms.

Until then, here is an artsy photo taken in the countryside:

First new and improved post here.